Food often defines societies and even civilizations. Through particular commensality restrictions, groups form distinct identities: those with whom we eat (“Us”) and those with whom we cannot eat (“Them”). This identity is enacted daily, turning the biological need to eat into a culturally significant activity. In this book, Jordan D. Rosenblum explores how food regulations and practices helped to construct the identity of early rabbinic Judaism. Bringing together the scholarship of rabbinics with that of food studies, this volume first examines the historical reality of food production and consumption in Roman-era Palestine. It then explores how early rabbinic food regulations created a distinct Jewish, male, and rabbinic identity. Rosenblum's work demonstrates how rabbinic food practices constructed an edible identity.
Jordan D. Rosenblum is Belzer Assistant Professor of Classical Judaism at the University of Wisconsin, Madison. He has contributed to the Journal for the Study of Judaism, Jewish Quarterly Review, and the Journal of Jewish Studies.
CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS
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© Jordan D. Rosenblum 2010
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First published 2010
Printed in the United States of America
A catalog record for this publication is available from the British Library.
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication dataRosenblum, Jordan, 1979–Food and identity in early rabbinic Judaism / Jordan Rosenblum.p. cm.ISBN 978-0-521-19598-0 (hardback)1. Jews – Dietary laws. 2. Jews – Food – History. 3. Jews – Identity. 4. Rabbinicalliterature – History and criticism. I. Title.BM710.R615 2010296.7′309015 – dc22 2009047361
ISBN 978-0-521-19598-0 Hardback
Cambridge University Press has no responsibility for the persistence or accuracy of URLs for external or third-party Internet Web sites referred to in this publication and does not guarantee that any content on such Web sites is, or will remain, accurate or appropriate.
For Valerie
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Acknowledgments
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ix |
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Abbreviations
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xiii |
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Introduction
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1 |
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“The Set Table”: Organization and Structure
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10 |
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A Brief Introduction to the Tannaitic Corpus
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13 |
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1 Realia
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15 |
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What Did They Eat?
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17 |
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How Did They Obtain Their Food?
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22 |
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How Did They Prepare Their Food?
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24 |
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In What Manner Did They Eat Their Food?
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30 |
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Realia: Conclusions
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33 |
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2 Jewish Identity
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35 |
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Pre-Tannaitic Evidence for Commensality Restrictions
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36 |
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Food as Metonym/Food as Embodiment
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45 |
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The “Abominable Pig”
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48 |
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Manna
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58 |
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The Passover
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63 |
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The Laws of Kashrut
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68 |
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Food as Metonym/Food as Embodiment: Conclusions
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73 |
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The Status of Food Correlates with the Status of Its Cook
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75 |
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Meat
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76 |
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Non-Meat Items
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81 |
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Conclusions
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89 |
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Commensality as Idolatry
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91 |
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Jewish Identity: Conclusions
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101 |
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3 Jewish Male Identity
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103 |
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Preparing Food as (Re)Producing Male Identity
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104 |
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Sharing the Kitchen with the Ḥabēr and the ‘Am hā’Āreṣ
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117 |
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Preparing Food as (Re)Producing Male Identity: Conclusions
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120 |
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Women at the Tannaitic Table?
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123 |
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“It Leads to Transgression”: Commensality Among Zābîm
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132 |
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Jewish Male Identity: Conclusions
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135 |
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4 Jewish Male Rabbinic Identity
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138 |
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The Cuisine of the Rabbinic Jew
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140 |
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Purity and Commensality
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143 |
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Commensality between the Ḥabēr and the ‘Am hā’Āreṣ
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146 |
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Purity and Commensality: Conclusions
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153 |
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The Status of Food Correlates with the Status of Its Cook
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154 |
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Reinterpreting Festival Observance
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161 |
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Passover
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162 |
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Sukkot
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170 |
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The Sabbath
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174 |
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Commensality and the Synagogue
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178 |
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Jewish Male Rabbinic Identity: Conclusions
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182 |
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Conclusion
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185 |
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Bibliography
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193 |
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Selected General Index
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209 |
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Index of Pre-Modern Sources
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212 |
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Selected Index of Modern Scholars
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220 |
Like a good meal, scholarship is best when shared with others. Over the course of my time at various universities, I have been fortunate to enjoy the company of many people at both the seminar table and the dinner table. I am delighted to have the opportunity to thank several of them. To those whom space or memory limitations prevent me from acknowledging, I owe a home-cooked meal.
As this book began its life as a dissertation, I would first like to thank the members of my dissertation committee. My advisor, Michael Satlow, forced me to reconsider my assumptions and to probe deeper, often sending me back to the drawing board. What has emerged, I hope, is a much clearer argument that is a testament to his guidance. Ross Kraemer always made time for her “other Jordan.” Sue Alcock offered me the encouragement I needed to endure the long process of getting the thoughts out of my head and onto paper.
Although I owe a debt of gratitude to many teachers, I would like to acknowledge three in particular. Bill Gilders and Saul Olyan are two mentors whom I am now proud to call friends. Seth Schwartz was instrumental in inspiring me to pursue both this profession and the topic of this book.
Several scholars have been generous with their time, especially Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus, David Kraemer, Susan Marks, Jon Schofer, and Susan Weingarten. David Freidenreich offered careful and insightful comments on an early draft of this manuscript. Our conversations have always pushed me to rethink, reformulate, and sharpen my ideas. Gregg Gardner served as a sounding board on both my work and my fantasy football team, and e-mailed me countless references.
Revisions of this manuscript were completed while enjoying the patronage of two world-class institutions. In the spring of 2009, I was a Starr Fellow at the Center for Jewish Studies at Harvard University. I thank the acting director, Bernard Septimus, and Shaye Cohen. The University of Wisconsin–Madison has offered, despite the winter temperatures, a warm environment in which to research and teach. In particular, I would like to thank Rachel Brenner, Michael Fox, Philip Hollander, Cynthia Miller, and Ron Troexel. Chris Dargis deserves mention for her help with various administrative matters. I am grateful to Kevin Mattison for his assistance in creating the index. I would also like to thank my students, who push me toward greater clarity in both my written and spoken words. I would be remiss if I did not acknowledge the help of my teaching assistants, Israel Haas, Chris Jones, and Jonathon Wiley, whose capable assistance allowed me to devote more time to research.
At Cambridge University Press, I would like to acknowledge the help of my editor, Beatrice Rehl, and her assistant, Amanda Smith.
Earlier versions of sections of Chapter 2 appeared in the following journals, whose editors I gratefully acknowledge for granting me permission to reprint them: “Kosher Olive Oil in Antiquity Reconsidered,” JSJ 40/3 (2009): 356–365; “‘Why Do You Refuse to Eat Pork?’: Jews, Food, and Identity in Roman Palestine,” JQR 100/1: 95–110; and “From Their Bread to Their Bed: Commensality, Intermarriage, and Idolatry in Tannaitic Literature,” JJS: in press.
Eddie Ross and Michael Slater helped remind me that there is more to life than work. Daniel Ullucci and Steven Larson have been colleagues and friends, offering insightful, constructive, and occasionally humorous advice. Ross Wolfson and Stan Zipper have been my best friends since high school. We have shared many meals and memories, from late night trips to Long Island diners to pancakes in Atlanta and Rhode Island. Through it all, they have helped me to keep perspective. I am fortunate to have such friends.
Many family members have offered support. In particular, I would like to thank Aunt Elaine, Uncle Chuck (z”l), Uncle Rom, Aunt Debby, Avi, Bubbie (z”l), and Grandma Mina (z”l). Dad, Rose, and Michael have been supportive particularly in these last few years. Sarah Maine and Scott Sherratt have brightened many meals – both in Rhode Island and New York City. Ron and Eugenie Maine have opened their home and table to me. Ian Rosenblum deserves acknowledgment, if only for putting up with me as his younger brother. My mother and stepfather, Rona and Harold Blau, still worry that I do not eat enough. They have encouraged and supported me every step of the way.